Home Forums General Discussion Elson water heater

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    • #336
      imported_post
      Moderator

      Hi all,

      Does anyone know anything about the elson coral e water heaters?  Over the last week I've had both elements, both thermostats and the blending valve replaced but still all I get is lukewarm water.  Could anyone recommend a plumber who knows the elson system.

      Thanks,
      Tim (7/101)

    • #773
      imported_post
      Moderator

      Hi Tim,

      Sorry to hear you are having problems with your Elson Coral E. However, you are by no means alone!

      Please check this thread http://www.rainbowquay.co.uk/Forum/index.php?topic=30.msg85#msg85 to see if that takes care of the problem.

      If still no joy, any one of the plumbers listed our main site http://www.rainbowquay.co.uk/Contacts.html should be able to help you (we have used Ian Norton for this in the past) – but the only long-term fix may be to get rid of your Coral E altogether…

      I hope this helps.

      Kind regards

      Tom
      10, 2 RQ

    • #774
      imported_post
      Moderator

      Hello Tim.

      Sorry to hear that your having problems with your Elson.  I was recently emailed by a resident who had to switch theirs out so I will email them and get the name of the plumber they used for you.  You may have to wait until Monday though as I only have a work email for them.

      One thing I would just add is that I recently had a problem with my elson.  I also switched out the elements and was still getting luke warm water.  I was racking my brains what was wrong with it and I realized that my electric was not flicking on to the cheap rate.  So although the boost was working the main element wasn’t.  Edf had to call round and change the meter in the end as this is what controls the different rates of electric.  This took a few weeks though so in the mean time I just rewired the main element to the boost and heated the water as I needed it. If your storage heaters are getting hot though this will not be the problem.  If you have checked both the fuses and the rcd's for the heater and there is electricity going to the unit then I cant think for the life of me what it might be.  The other thread Tom references in his post has the link to the manual that has a troubleshoot page you could try to follow.  Hope you get it sorted out soon.

      All the best
      Simon
      6 / 97

    • #775
      imported_post
      Moderator

      Thanks Simon and Tom.

      Yeah it's really weird.  I do get the off peak timer come on but only for 20 minutes and when I run the hot tap the pipe from the unit becomes really hot for about 20 seconds and then back to tepid.  I would appreciate the plumbers details who changed another residents elson unit and will also give Ian Norton a call.

      Your help is appreciated.

      Tim (7/101) 

    • #776
      imported_post
      Moderator

      20 minutes of off peak sounds a bit weird.  The off peak should come on for a total of 9 hours, and I think this is between 13:30 and 15:30 GMT, 10:00 to 12:00 GMT and 1:00 to 6:00 GMT or there abouts (assuming your on the economy 9 Tariff from EDF). One other problem I had in the past was that the thermostat was set too high and would trip out on the bottom element and I had to turn it down to 55/60 degree's ish to enable the unit to stay on.  It certainly sounds to me as if the unit isn't staying on long enough to heat the tank. Especially as you have factored out the bleed valve.

    • #777
      imported_post
      Moderator

      Simon,

      Sorry I meant 20 minutes(ish) each off peak period and am on economy 9 with edf.  I'll give lowering the bottom theromstat a go and see what happens.

      Once again thanks,

      Tim 

    • #778
      imported_post
      Moderator

      Tim,

      The resident who emailed me ended up using Ian Norton who is off the contacts page of the website.  His telephone number is 07970 288848.  I suggest getting him to take a look as he is familiar with the boilers.  Do let us know what the problem turns out to be.

      All the best

      Simon
      6/97

    • #779
      imported_post
      Moderator

      Simon,

      I tried your trick of lowering the thermostat of the bottom element overnight with no luck.  However when I put it back to its highest setting the next day I seemed to get alot more hot water.  I'll see what happens over the next couple of days before I contact Ian Norton.  I'll post the outcome.

      Thanks,
      Tim (7/101) 

    • #780
      Anonymous
      Guest

      A couple of points which may also be helpful: :'(
      The hours for EDF economy nine are as follows.

      • 13:30 to 15:30, 22:00 to midnight, 02:00 to 05:00 and 05:30 to 07:30

      Bizarre.

      Also the company which adjusted all the heaters in the early days when they were found to be faulty was EHV Services  Tel:01737373655

      Good luck with it.
      Chris Todhunter
      [/list]

    • #781
      imported_post
      Moderator

      Chris,

      Thanks for your post.  A couple of points.  My off peak hours have not moved forward by an hour when BST started – anyone else?  Also I have a 210 litre elson tank (3 bed flat) and get about 10 minutes of hot water from the shower – is this normal considering the old bits that have been replaced?

      Thanks,
      Tim

    • #782
      imported_post
      Moderator

      Hi all,

      I to only get luke warm water (on a good day) through the shower, however the hot water through all the other taps are extremely hot so i presume there's nothing wrong with the boiler.

      Is it possible that it's just the shower unit itself that is faulty?

      What is involved in installing an electric shower unit?

      Cheers, Damian.

    • #783
      imported_post
      Moderator

      Hi Daymo,

      I had a similar problem with my shower when I first moved in.  I think that it will most likely be the thermostat inside the shower that is either set too low or has become unresponsive due to lime scale build up.  If you undo the cover at the centre of the shower unit you will find a large screw.  If you undo that you will see there is a hole of about 5 mm diameter.  You will need a very long and narrow flat blade screw driver to reach the thermostat unit.  Adjust the thermostat until the water mixes to be slightly hotter than you require. 
      Limescale build is another problem, to solve this one I removed one of the output covers of the shower and filled it up with cillit bang and left for a few moments and then flushed the water through.
      You can test that you are getting hot water to the shower by turning the shower to about 9pm so its running with majority cold.  If you then feel each of the feed pipes you should be able to feel what one is the hot.  Mine is too hot to hold for any length of time.
      I have a user diagram for the shower at home and should you require that to gain access to the thermostat then let me know and I will post it.
      Hope that all helps.
      All the best
      Simon
      6 / 97.

    • #784
      imported_post
      Moderator

      Hi Simon,

      That sounds like the problem. The feed pipe on the left if you're looking at the shower is to hot to touch which is why I assumed it may be the unit itself. Using your advice I'm going to have a go tomorrow. If it's convenient and you have the time I'd appreciate a copy of the diagram – I'm in 1/1.

      Thanks for your help and advise.

      Cheers, Daymo.

    • #785
      imported_post
      Moderator

      Hi Daymo

      I purchased a screw driver specifically for the job so I will pop it in your letter box in the morning.  When you have adjusted the thermostat you can just pop me the screwdriver back.

      I have attached a picture that shows an exploded view of what I believe is the shower in the flats.

      All the best

      Simon
      6 / 97 Rope Street.

    • #786
      imported_post
      Moderator

      Did you have any joy with that thermostat in the end?

    • #787
      imported_post
      Moderator

      Hi Simon,

      Unfortunately not. I added some lime scale remover into the head and left it for several hours and when I returned to try turn the thermostat it didn't appear to do anything. It's a little difficult as you can't see anything but I really don't feel like anything is turning in either direction. I'm also a little worried about stripping the thermostat screw.

      Not sure what to try next – I'm thinking it's one for a plumber.

      Thanks again for all your help.

      Cheers, Daymo.

    • #788
      Anonymous
      Guest

      My bottom element of the water heater corroded couple months back – leading to off-peak heating not working, and eventually a total leakage.

      Found a plumber from plumblocal.com called Alan who works in our area, and works with these all the time.

      Let me know if you want his no.

      Edith
      5/101

    • #789
      imported_post
      Moderator

      I had similar problems with my Elson since I moved in, and no amount of turning the thermostat helped. I lived in West block many years ago and we had exactly the same problem with it (and the plumber then couldn't fully fix it). Anyway, after having a new floor installed I awoke the next morning to find my hall and living room flooded. The Elson had exploded in the morning. I got a new electric boiler installed, which although expensive, is probably the best thing I have done for my flat since I moved in. I really do recommend you get rid of the Elson if you can

    • #790
      imported_post
      Moderator

      Hi Ben

      As a matter of curiosity what make and model water heater did you install.

      Kind regards
      Simon
      6 / 97

    • #791
      imported_post
      Moderator

      Just for the continuity of this thread and, I suppose, for statistical purposes, the bottom heater element in our Elson Coral E would seem to have packed it in after some 5 years' service (it was itself a replacement element at the time). We are currently using the booster function (i.e. the top element, I believe) as a temporary, but expensive solution for our hot water until we can get someone 'round to fix it. The new replacement element should obviously be without the built-in thermal fuse which was found on older models and which had a tendency of blowing and causing a very severe leak in the process.

      Tom
      10, 2 RQ

    • #792
      imported_post
      Moderator

      Just for the continuity of this thread and, I suppose, for statistical purposes, the bottom heater element in our Elson Coral E would seem to have packed it in after some 5 years' service (it was itself a replacement element at the time). We are currently using the booster function (i.e. the top element, I believe) as a temporary, but expensive solution for our hot water until we can get someone 'round to fix it. The new replacement element should obviously be without the built-in thermal fuse which was found on older models and which had a tendency of blowing and causing a very severe leak in the process.

      Tom
      10, 2 RQ

      … but the temporary booster solution only lasted us until last Friday, when switching it on started causing our fuse board to immediately cut out. It has been cold water for us ever since :o, potentially continuing over the Easter period, as we wait for the spares to be delivered to the plumber, who will then fix a date with us for the job of draining the tank and fitting the new elements (assuming they are causing the problem – again…).

    • #793
      imported_post
      Moderator

      Tom
      When mine packed up I rang elson direct and had the part delivered next day by special delivery.  Did you try that route?
      All the best
      Simon.

    • #794
      imported_post
      Moderator

      Thank you, Simon – I did try that route successfully 5-6 years ago but have left it to our plumber this time 'round.

    • #795
      imported_post
      Moderator

      Just for the continuity of this thread and, I suppose, for statistical purposes, the bottom heater element in our Elson Coral E would seem to have packed it in after some 5 years' service (it was itself a replacement element at the time). We are currently using the booster function (i.e. the top element, I believe) as a temporary, but expensive solution for our hot water until we can get someone 'round to fix it. The new replacement element should obviously be without the built-in thermal fuse which was found on older models and which had a tendency of blowing and causing a very severe leak in the process.

      Tom
      10, 2 RQ

      … but the temporary booster solution only lasted us until last Friday, when switching it on started causing our fuse board to immediately cut out. It has been cold water for us ever since :o, potentially continuing over the Easter period, as we wait for the spares to be delivered to the plumber, who will then fix a date with us for the job of draining the tank and fitting the new elements (assuming they are causing the problem – again…).

      By way of further knowledge-sharing, as I think it is important we build up a 'knowledge bank' of these things, and it could be you next time and probably statistically will be at some point if you have an Elson Coral E:

      I removed the protective cover last night (after obviously cutting the power supply) to make sure the bottom element did not just require a reset, which it did not. However, I also checked the wiring against the manual (http://www.elsonhotwater.co.uk/elson/elson.nsf/E610AF0CEFF6906380256AEF004E0D41/$file/corale10.pdf?OpenElement).

      After a thorough examination, I found that the blue mains wire had come loose from its soldering point, and the cable itself looked as if it had taken a bit of a beating and was slightly blackened etc. However, after reconnecting and leaving it over-night, at least we had hot water this morning!

      I have left the boiler switched off for the day as a safety measure and generally always leave it off if we are away for more than, say, 24 hours.

      We are still going to have the plumber 'round, as the water was almost boiling hot this morning, and I now suspect the root of the problem could be with the thermostat – and our fuse board continues to cut out whenever the booster is switched on.

      Thank you.

    • #796
      imported_post
      Moderator

      Hi all,

      Recently I found out that the incorrect thermostat/element had been fitted to my coral e.  Although the fit was ok, it was an inferior model.  It was replaced with 14″coral e with vk thermostat.  Immersion heater ref no T14THVK.  This info is for the 210 litre tanks.

      Hope is of some use,
      Tim

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